Wednesday, September 23, 2009

Hakata Tonton - Pig Trotters in the West Village

GAH! This blog is like a ghost town.
Culinary school is kind of kicking my ass right now, in a nice way, but as a result I haven't been interneting and eating at new places so much. This is from months ago. Also, this is my attempt at a new, revamped, more succinct style of blogging - which, as you can tell, is not going so well already. Me: not the best at using a few number of words to describe something in a verbally frugal manner.

Hakata Tonton! Tonsoku! AKA Trotters!

For my birthday [months ago] M treated me to some pig's feet. What can I say but the guy knows the way to my heart.
If you haven't already surmised, Hakata Tonton (I believe 'tonton' might be a cuteified abbreviation for tonsoku, but that's just a freewheelin' speculation, with no google research whatsoever, woo!) specializes in pig's feet, in various preparations, and according to their website, "Authentic Kyushu Japanese Soul Food." They have 2 very reasonably-priced tasting menus: Tonton Tasting Menu ($38) and Chef's Tasting Menu ($42). We went with the former, which won us over with the inclusion of a hot pot, and fortuitously also came with a lower price-tag.

Shabu Shabu Pork Salad
Pork salad. Can't be bad, right? It wasn't. The shreds of shabu-shabu pork were not dry, as I was half expecting, and an interesting deviation from the other forms of pork more prevalent in salads - bacon, lardons. The dressing was tangy and light. Very refreshing. I think there were fried shallots or minced onions on top.

Atlantic Salmon Carpaccio
Another can't-really-go-wrong dish. I could squawk something about the menu "playing to the masses," but the food was good, so who cares? I like raw salmon, I like sparkly tobiko, I like colorful sprinkles of garnish (chives). Win. The fish was fresh, and the dressing was a lemon (and soy?) dressing that played up the ingredients nicely, without being too overpowering.

Grilled Pork Toooooonsokuuu! (That is how I imagine it's supposed to be inflected)
This was almost certainly my favorite dish. Simply seasoned with not much more than salt, allowing the essential flavors of the meat and char shine. Yes, char shines. Oh so tender, and gelatinous, cartilage-y, and collagen-y...I understand the last three adjectives might not make most people's mouths water, but if you know what's good for you, you know they are good things. Seriously. Chef Himi Okajima praises pigs' feet, not just for the wonderful flavor and texture, but claims (in a 2008 interview from NYDaily News):

"In Kyushu, many people eat pigs' feet, so there is a lot of beauty there - beautiful women."

Collagen: it's not just for injecting into your face with a syringe anymore.
I definitely prefer the insertion-into-the-mouth-chewing-and-swallowing method of administering.

I regret to say that I could not capture a good picture of the most interestingly flavored dish of the evening, but you can catch a blurry glimpse of it in the top left corner of the picture above. I forgot what they were called, but we got them in lieu of the gyoza, which pleased me, 'cause I like getting special things, and trying new things. They were chicken wings, crispy and coated in...something. I can't say I liked them immediately, but for some reason I couldn't stop eating them. Here's what I said to M: "They taste like peanut butter rice crispy chicken wings." Scoff (or gag) if you will, but I liked them...I think...? Something made me keep going for them, but I would be remiss if I didn't say that it could've been their uncanny flavor resemblance to my childhood favorite candy bar.

Hot Pot - Phase 1
You are given the choice of the Hakata Tonton Hot Pot, or Shabu Shabu Hot Pot. I love shabu-shabu, but in the spirit of the night, we went with the namesake again. There was just a shitton of stuff in here: collagen broth, tofu, dumplings, vegetables, Berkshire pork belly, and tonsoku. Additionally, I think those are goji berries scattered on top.

Phase 2
I thought it was nice that we got a chance to digest the first few courses while waiting for the hot pot to stew, as wafts of funky, porky aromas waltzed around our contented faces.
I really enjoyed this dish, as well. I don't know if it is a traditional dish to Kyushu, but it actually felt very Korean to me. Like Kimchi Jigae, but really rich and deeply flavored Kimchi Jigae, probably owing to the collagen broth of long stewed tonsoku.

Phase 3
Confirming my notion of Korean influence is the choice they give you for the third phase of the hot pot: rice bibimbap or ramen noodle. We chose ramen. After you are done eating most of the contents of the hot pot, and it is apparent that you are fully satisfied, the server comes out and plops a bunch of more shit into your pot. You let that boil, and then you eat your Hot Pot Part Deux (remember the Hot Shots! movies? Yeah...)
This was also tasty, and still reminded me of Korean food, except this time Shin Ramyun.

Desserts: Cheese Mousse & Black Sesame Ice Cream
The desserts were nothing spectacular, but not bad. Just very bland subtle. I remember noting how black sesame ice cream looks like concrete.

So much for succinct. Fuckcinct.

Hakata Tonton
61 Grove St (between Bleecker & 7th Ave )
NY, NY 10014
(212) 242-3699
http://www.tontonnyc.com/

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