Wednesday, January 19, 2011

B Flat - Tribeca

Here is a post I wrote as a sample to try out as a contributor for one of my favorite blogs--let's call it 'Somber Comestibles'--reviewing bar food. I didn't get the gig, but I figured I might as well post it here, since I really like this place. I'm not crazy about the post, but we can't win 'em all.

(Credit: thank you to M for purchasing and allowing me to use the Speedlite 430EX II, without which these fabulous photographs would not have been possible. Except for the drink photos, which were clearly taken without flash, for artistic effect. Or because I got lazy.)


Walk too fast, and you might miss it. Like a hushed “pssst!” to the observant passer-by, the tiny ‘B’ painted on the door is the only signage indicating that there is something down the stairs beyond—except during happy hour (Monday-Friday, 5-8PM), when they have a sandwich board out on the sidewalk.

In a city rife with not-so-secret ‘secret’ hot spots and speakeasy-type hideaways, this Japanese-style jazz bar’s low-key demeanor conveys a stylish restraint rather than pretense. This carries over onto the menu as well, to great effect.

Opened a few years ago by alums of Angel’s Share in the East Village, B Flat calls itself an ‘Authentic Bar,’ and it certainly lives up to this (rather vague and mysterious) title. The drink menu is comprehensive, listing a wide array of spirits, and signature and classic cocktails, categorized by type of spirit. Their signature cocktails and food selections tend to have elements of Japanese influence and ingredients that make them not only distinctive, but more importantly, delicious.

The current menu differs from the one on their website, but luckily one of the constant staples is the Fried Chicken ‘Tatsuta’ ($8 regular, $5 at happy hour).

Fried Chicken 'Tatsuta'Ample moist pieces of marinated boneless thigh meat, battered in katakuriko (potato starch), and fried to crisp, golden perfection, they’re served with an always-welcome cup of spicy mayo. After a long day, a basket of these babies washed down with a cold draft beer ($4 at happy hour) is a cure-all. A delicious, deep-fried cure.

Only slightly less euphoria-inducing was the Teriyaki Burger.

Teriyaki BurgerWhile the words ‘teriyaki’ and ‘burger’ generally do not belong together in my mind, thankfully the teriyaki was much subdued, adding just the slightest hint of sweetness, along with the pillowy bun. The burger itself was a little dry, but had a good char flavor. And the accompanying pile of those quintessential fast food-style fries were hot and crispy, and made amends for any minor offenses of the burger.

There were also a few less conventional ‘bar food’ items on the menu. The Mushroom Spaghetti was an especially pleasant surprise.

Mushroom Spaghetti
Tossed in a light butter-soy sauce with mixed mushrooms, and topped with shredded nori and shiso, it’s a comforting mélange of umami flavors that transcends most typical bar food standards.

'Carpaccio of the Day' - Fluke
The ‘Carpaccio of the day,’ however, which on this day was fluke dressed in a soy-ginger vinaigrette, with sesame seeds and scallions on a bed of mixed greens, was less inspiring. Despite the fish being fresh and delicate, the very dominant sesame oil flavor, albeit tasty if you love sesame like I do, felt a little unbalanced—which was contrary to just about everything else we tried, including the cocktails.


'Groovy'
Old Fashioned
The beautifully simple ‘Groovy’ ($12) consisting of shiso infused vodka, yuzu juice, and a shiso leaf garnish, was a perfect balance of refreshing, aromatic, and tart. My friend said his Old Fashioned ($11) was also excellent. The cocktails here are not the cheapest around, but you can be sure they will be crafted with the utmost care by the ‘bar chefs,’ which is how the gentlemen who tend the bar refer to themselves. They obviously take great pride in what they do here—and fortunately the kitchen chefs do a fine job holding their own beside them.





Blergh!
Try, try again.

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